Carnitas tacos

Pork and toppings

1. Cut the pork into 3 to 4-inch chunks, leaving some fat attached. Mix the weighed salt and dry spices, then season every side. Cover and refrigerate overnight if you have time, or cook right away.
2. Put the pork in a heavy Dutch oven with 1 cup water, the fresh orange and lime juice, the squeezed orange half, cinnamon and bay leaves. Discard the lime shell. No searing is needed.
3. Bring to a gentle simmer over medium heat. Cover tightly with a lid; if needed, crimp foil over the pot rim beneath the lid, keeping it clear of the flame. Turn the heat low. Maintain a few lazy bubbles, not a rolling boil.
4. Gently turn the pieces about every 45 minutes. Keep some liquid in the bottom, adding a little hot water if needed. Start checking tenderness after 3 hours of gentle simmering; allow roughly 3 to 4 1/2 hours at a simmer, plus time to heat the pot. A fork should twist easily in the largest pieces. If the meat resists, cover and keep cooking.
5. Lift the pork into a casserole dish or wide pan. Strain the juices into a separate heatproof container, discarding the citrus, cinnamon and bay. Pull the pork into generous strands. For same-day cooking, skim the fat from the warm juices, or use a fat separator. Save both the fat and the juices.
6. For the chilled separation I used, divide the strained juices into shallow containers and refrigerate promptly, without waiting for a large pot to cool on the counter. Refrigerate the pork separately with a little juice. Once cold, lift the solid fat off the gelatin-rich juices. Save some fat for beans or hominy and some for crisping the pork.
7. Heat a thin film of reserved pork fat in a skillet over medium-high heat. Add a loose single layer of pork. Leave it alone for about 4 to 6 minutes until the underside browns, then turn and cook about 2 to 3 minutes more. Work in batches. For chilled pork, heat it through to 165°F.
8. Fold a small spoonful of the reserved juices into each batch as it finishes. Let excess liquid cook off so the edges stay crisp. Taste a piece and finish with salt and fresh lime as needed. Serve in warm tortillas with cotija and crema.

Pinto beans

Makes about 6 cups.

1. In a 6-quart pressure cooker on sauté, cook the onion and jalapeño in the oil for about five minutes. Add garlic and dry spices for 30 seconds.
2. Add a cup of broth and scrape the base clean. Cancel sauté. Add the beans, remaining broth, water, bouillon and bay.
3. Cook on high pressure for 48 minutes, then allow a full natural release. Check the beans before serving. Give them more time under pressure if they're still firm.
4. Remove the bay. Mash about ½ cup of beans and stir back into the pot. Stir in butter and the vinegar or lime. Taste before adding salt.
5. Let the liquid thicken briefly, then serve.

Mexican corn cakes

Makes about 20 muffin-size cakes; yield depends on the tin.

1. Heat the oven to 350°F and grease the muffin tin. Roughly puree half the drained corn; leave the rest whole.
2. Whisk the eggs, condensed milk and melted butter. Stir in the corn.
3. Whisk flour, baking powder and salt together. Fold into the wet ingredients just until combined.
4. Divide among the cups, leaving room for the cakes to rise. Begin checking around 22 minutes. The centers should be set and the tops should spring back. Continue baking if wet batter remains in the center.
5. Let the cakes firm up in the tin before turning them out.

Cilantro-lime slaw

Toss the shredded cabbage and carrot with the dressing ingredients just before serving. Taste and adjust.

1. Whisk the lime juice, oil, vinegar and salt in a large bowl. Add the cabbage, carrot and cilantro and toss thoroughly. Let stand for about 10 minutes, then taste and add a little more lime or salt if needed. Toss again before serving.